Just
14 miles and 20 minutes from the city lie
the HELLSHIRE HILLS,
a huge expanse of low hills, white sand beaches,
limestone caves, salt ponds, scrub and cactus,
much of it still untouched despite the encroachment
of housing estates. A comprehensive plan for
27,000 acres here included low, middle and
upper income housing, schools, medical facilities
churches, light industry and tourist resorts.
The development, administered by the government
Urban Development Company was launched in
1965 and has created the beginnings of a twin
city. Unfortunately the vast majority of the
residents work in Kingston so traffic and
transportation problems were horrendous even
before the launching in 1991 of the Greater
Portmore scheme which aims to provide another
15,000 dwellings.
The
wilder regions of the Hellshire Hills still
harbour wild hogs and it was a pig Marcus
hunter who three years ago discovered by
accident, that the Jamaica Iguana still
exists here. No longer classified as extinct,
it is now considered the rarest lizard in
the world. A conservation project headed
by UWI naturalist Dr. Peter Vogel is underway.
The undeveloped hills are also one of the
few places where another endangered species
the Jamaican Coney survives. This small
nocturnal creature was hunted as food by
the Arawaks and the Maroons.
Travel
to Hellshire from downtown Kingston. Turn
L off Garvey Drive, skirting the Kingston
Freezone and crossing the causeway. To your
R across the Hunts Bay lagoon lies Caymanas
Park Racetrack and the mouth of the Rio
Cobre at Passage Fort. This was the seaport
for the ancient capital of Spanish Town
and the place where the British force landed
to capture the island in 1655. It is now
the site of Jamworld entertainment centre.
Midway
along the causeway there is a fishing beach
to your right, and a collection of shacks
selling fresh fish. Most of the fish comes
from far outside the harbour. Periodic oil
spills and pollution in the harbour and
Hunts Bay have all but destroyed the marine
environment here.
After
leaving the causeway, historic Fort Augusta
on your L is a women s prison which invariably
harbours several pseudo tourists, convicted
as drug runners. PORTMORE
sprawling in front of you is a middle
income dormitory suburb. The road to Port
Henderson is lined with restaurants, clubs
and guest houses the character of which
can be deduced from names like Happy Times
, Moments , La Roose etc. Jolly s is a popular
place for seafood, especially on Tuesday
evenings.
The
almost derelict multi-storey building looming
under a small hill is all that remains of
the attempt to create a tourism resort here.
It started life as the Forum Hotel, later
it became the Adventure Inn, and was finally
bought by the government who have failed
to put it to any use at all.
PORT
HENDERSON was
a fashionable resort during the last century
and a favourite place of at least one governor
s wife, Lady Nugent. She was fond of driving
here from Spanish Town before breakfast
. One of its attractions, an icy mineral
spa, disappeared after a severe hurricane.
The PORT HENDERSON
BEACH PARK, previously enjoyed
by racehorses from nearby stables at Caymanas
racetrack has been recently leased to a
group headed by PNP politician Dr. Jepthah
Ford. Refurbished and expanded it is now
a rootsy playground for city dwellers. Ask
for directions to
RODNEY's LOOKOUT and the ruins
of a residence belonging to Admiral George
Rodney, the naval hero who saved Jamaica
from a French invasion. Rodney's Lookout,
formerly called Grasspiece Lookout, is about
a quarter of a mile beyond the ruins and
affords a magnificent view of the Kingston
harbour. Getting there involves a steep
hike but there is a safe place to park your
car near the JDF camp at Green Bay.
To
reach Hellshire Hills, turn R beneath the
low hill and then L and L again driving
behind the hill through scrub and wetland
and passing R a portion of the Greater Portmore
scheme with some weird and wonderful additions
to the rather dismal basic units.
PLACES
OF INTEREST IN HELLSHIRE
FORT
CLARENCE BEACH:
Follow the sign L of the first roundabout.
Fort Clarence is very popular with Kingstonians
of all walks of life and offers at weekends
a fascinating glimpse of Jamaica at play.
It is also a frequent venue for music shows
and body building contests. In addition
to sea, sand, and surf there are changing
rooms, lifeguards, security, picnic grounds,
a restaurant and bar, and snack shacks where
you can sample fry fish n bammy and a local
specialty called festival ( a scrumptious
fried dumpling with a trace of sugar). The
name Fort Clarence derives from a small
fort on the headland nearby, another of
the string of forts all around the coast
that were essential to the defence of the
island during the eighteenth century.
The
shallow GREAT SALT
POND south
of Fort Clarence is connected to the ocean.
A favourite fishing ground of the Arawaks
it still harbours snook, calipoeva mullet,
mangrove snapper, stingray, shrimp and some
alligators. The marine environment off Hellshire
is already showing signs of stress and there
were fears that sewage from the huge housing
development of Greater Portmore would impact
the wetlands and salt ponds and compound
pollution of the marine environment. So
the developers, West Indies Home Contractors
employed UWI scientists to design an environment-friendly
system that would require little maintenance:
the result is huge maturation ponds visible
on your R and constructed wetlands for final
polishing of the effluent. Their boast is
that water emerging from this system is
potable.
For
HELLSHIRE (or the Fisherman's
) BEACH,
turn L at the next roundabout and follow
your nose. A collection of shacks and parked
cars will confirm that you re there. A number
of fisherfolk live here and the fish and
festival served from their rickety stalls
is excellent. The boats come in from sea
at about 11 am and sell the fish right on
the beach. There is safe and enjoyable swimming
in the northern part of the bay which is
shallow and protected by a small reef. Very
popular with Jamaicans of all walks of life,
it has a carefree, egalitarian ambiance.
TWO
SISTERS CAVE is worth a visit.
After the Hellshire roundabout continue
L up and over the hill until you come to
a rather faded sign. The entrance to the
cave is in semi-desert surroundings overlooking
Kingston harbour. The caves are separated
by tons of fallen rocks and accessed by
sturdy wooden staircases that lead down
below sea-level to caves filled with brackish
fossil water . They are estimated to be
200,000 years old and represent the final
stage of a geological process called limestone
cavern collapse.
From
the observation platforms you can immerse
yourself in eerie stillness and shimmering
reflections and brood upon the gentle extinct
race who left behind a rock carving to guard
the spirits in the cave. A lone petroglyph
(rock carving) is on the wall of the smaller
cave, encased in a wooden frame. It represents
an Arawak face, though 1000 years of humidity
and erosion have made this somewhat difficult
to recognize. Ironically, the roof of the
larger cave has two rock extrusions that
resemble human faces. The water here is
crystal blue and the cave is inhabited by
tiny swallows. Caretaker of the Two Sisters,
Ronald Greaves, is helpful and knowledgeable.
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