As
we continue along the A2 through Porus,
at the center of an important citrus growing
area, we arrive at Mandeville. It was named
after Lord Mandeville, the eldest son of
the Duke of Manchester, the Governor after
whom the parish is named. Manchester parish
is the island's largest producer of bauxite,
a red ore. This explains the red soil seen
throughout the parish.
Mandeville
is the chief town of manchester parish,
Jamaica's mountain resort, the island's
largest urban center. The town was laid
out in 1816 and many of the original buildings
can still be seen. Although only 64 miles
(103km) from Kingston, Mandeville has a
charm - and a climate - all of its own,
as if it has been sheltered against al the
developments in the capital and around the
coast. It has a town square, parish church
and clock tower, and many large, elegant
early nineteenth-century houses to see along
the winding streets. The square is more
like a village green and Mandeville has
been described as the most English town
on Jamaica.
It is now a tourist center with delightful
and charming hotels and guesthouses, and
the market town for the surrounding rich
agricultural areas. You can buy a wide variety
of fruit and nuts for a picnic from the
roadside stalls. It is also a service center
for the two nearaby bauxite works.
Mandeville Square and Green are the heart
of the town and surrounded by most of the
oldest buildings. The Court House was built
in the 180s from locally hewn limestone
blocks. Beside it is the former rectory,
the oldest building in the town which over
the year has been an inn, guesthouse and
is now a private house. The Parish Church
also dates from the early 1820s, while the
Mandeville Hotel
on Hotel Street is a town landmark.
It was built as a barracks for English troops,
later became the Officers' Quarters and
Mess, and in 1875 changed to a hotel. The
Information Centre is at the Astra Inn on
Ward Avenue, beyond the Tudor Theatre, and
teh Sugar Industry Research Institute is
to the north off Kendal road. There is a
S.W.A. Craft Centre close to the Manchester
shopping plaza, and the town market, just
south of the square, sells fruit and vegetables,
fresh fish and meat including goat heads
that are considered a delicacy.
The railway station is just to the north
at Williamsfield where there is also the
small High Mountain coffee factory and the
Pioneer Chocolate factory - 963-4216, both
of which can be visited. There are tours
of the Coffee Factory
where you can see the whole coffee process
from the roasting of the beans to grinding
and packing. By appointment - 963-4211.
Other Things To
See And Do In And Around Mandeville
The massive Alcan Kirkvine bauxite works
are to the north east, and tours can be
arranged. The Cecil Charlton Mansion is
a mile and a half (2.5km) south of town
on Huntingdon Summit. The unusual octagonal
house looks out over pastures and corals
with grazing cattle and horses, and there
are aviaries in the garden.
About
10 miles (16km) north of Mandeville is the
delightful hill town of Christiana. It is
remarkably well preserved, the churches
date from the mid-1800s and there are many
fine old buildings. If visiting this market
town, visit Hotel Villa Bella, a hill top
plantation surrounded by citrus trees and
coffee plants. You can enjoy traditional
English tea on the verandah which offers
stunning panoramic views, eat in the excellent
restaurant, or stay overnight in one of
the delightful rooms.
You can also visit the Magic
Toy Factory, which produces all
wood toys and souvenirs. The
Gourie Recreation Centre is just
north of Christiana on the B5 and offers
many hiking trails and the Gourie Cave the
source of the Black River. Grove Place has
the island's largest livestock breeding
research station. It is to the northwest
on the B6 and further up the road is Mile
Gully that has a pretty nineteenth
century church.
The Paul Cross Nursery, on Manchester Road,
near Newleight Road, was started by a New
Jersey Catholic priest as a self-help project
Plants produced, mostly anthuriums, are
mainly exported to the US. There is a charming
courtyard area with lily pond and a large
variety of orchids. You can also visit by
appointment the gardens of Carmen Stephenson
off New Green Road. She specializes in orchids,
anthuriums and ortaniques. The beautiful
grounds of the 120 year old Manchester Club,
off Caledonia Road, host chamionship golf
and tennis tournaments during July. The
9-hole couese is the Island's and the Caribbean's
oldest, with a very English feel about it.
Marshall's Pen
is an eighteenth century Great House on
a 300 acre (120-hectares) cattle ranch and
wildlife sanctuary. The former coffee plantation
was bought by Arthur Sutton in 1939 and
is now famous for rearing Red Poll calves.
The present owner, Robert Sutton, is one
of the Island's leading ornithologists,
and there are birding tours of the estate
and almost 100 different species have been
recorded. The estate can be visited by appointment
only.
Shooter's Hill offers great panoramic views,
and just to the east, close to the junctions
of routes B4, B5 and B6 is te Pickappepa
factory which produces piquant pepper sauce,
not unlike Worcestershire sauce, which is
exported worldwide. Bill
Laurie's Steak House is rated
one of the best in the Caribbean and overlooks
Mandeville. It also has a museum of antique
cars, carrigaes and license plates from
all over the world. The area offers the
chance for hiking, horse riding, birding
and camping.
From Mandeville the A2 runs to Spur Tree,
the site of Marlborough
Great House, built in 1795 in
Palladian style, and then on to Wilton and
Santa Cruz. It then runs along a stretch
of highway known as Bamboo Avenue to Middle
Quarters. For almost three miles (5km) the
towering bamboo forms a gently swaying tunnel.
As this is a very popular scenic drive,
there are the attendant vendors along the
roadside, and if you are feeling hungry,
you can snack on delicious shrimps.
You can also visit one of Jamaica's newest
attractions, the Ostrich
Park at Lacovia. This 100 acre
(40hectare) working ostrich farm also features
a collection of exotic birds, petting zoo,
horseback riding and a food pavilion. There
are a number of trips into the interior
that can be taken here. It is worth taking
the short detour north here on the B6 to
YS (really Wyess, but almost always written
as YS), north of Middle Quarters, to visit
the YS Falls set
in 2,000 acres (800 hectares) of pastureland.
The seven waterfalls cascade down about
120 ft (37m) into the YS River that then
runs south into the Black River.
From YS take the right hand fork, still
the B6, to Maggotty with the Maggotty
Falls and the Apple
Valley Park, in the center of
town with fishing ponds and rods for hire,
boating, trails, waterfalls and camping.
Also visit Glenwyn
Halt, on the riverbank just outside
town with its thatched huts and local arts
and crafts.
In Appleton you must visit the
Appleton Estate that produces
what many people consider to be the world's
finest rum. From Maggotty you can continue
north through Retirement to visit the Accompong
Maroon Village, although if you
are continuing round the coast to Montego
Bay, it is perhaps better to take an organized
tour from there.
Return to th A2 that then runs south to
the fishing village of Black River with
its bright gingerbread houses along the
water's ede. The town used to be a busy
port, noted for the export of timber, sugar
and honey. There is a popular produce market
on Friday and Saturday.
The Black River
is the longest in Jamaica and
one of the haunts of the rare Jamaica crocodile.
It runs to the sea on the left hand side
of the road through a marshy area. The Waterloo
Guest House in Black River was the first
property in Jamaica to have electric lights,
and if you want to relax you can bathe in
the Black River Spa or the nearby Crane
Beach.
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