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Ocho Rios
Excerpted from the book, Jamaica, by Don Philpott

Ocho Rios is the second major tourist town on the north coast with a wide range of accommodation, excellent beaches, airstrip and modern cruise facilities. Each year it attracts more than 700,000 tourist, about 350,000 of these from cruise ships, and a major initiative is under to way to upgrade visitor facilities with information booths, toilets, more signs and guides, and a promenade from Reynolds Pier to Dunns River. There has been a crack down on hustlers and illegal vendors, and residents and businesses are being encouraged to plant flowers and trees and properly maintain properties.

The town makes a great base for exploring both the coast and the lush interior with its fast flowing rivers and the many waterfalls, working plantations and beautiful tropical gardens. The combination of sunshine and rainfall are ideal for flowering plants, and the area is usually a blaze of bright hibiscus and poinsettia. If you don't want to spend all your time on the beach or in the water, you can go Calypso rafting or hiking.

The tourist development stems from the 1960s when the harbor was dredged and the white sand beach reclaimed. The remains of the fort are just to the west of town, near the bauxite terminal, and were built in the late seventeenth century.

The town has a bustling market and a range of eating places, and the most popular attractions include the Carinosa Tropical Gardens, Shaw Park Gardens which offer stunning views over the town and out to sea, and Fern Gully which runs south of town. A new by pass now diverts most traffic around the town making it much easier to stroll around.

Carinosa
is just south of the town, set in a beautiful river gorge that runs through tropical rainforest. It has waterfalls, hanging garden, garden walks, aquarium and lakes, and is noted for its huge collection of orchids and ferns.

There is good shopping in town and at Ocean Village, and there is a Craft Park and Old Market Craft Shoppes. The post office is on Main Street, and the tourist office is in the Ocean Village Shopping Centre.

From Ocho Rios continue along the coast through Frankfort to Harmony Hall. It is about 4 miles (6km) east of the town and was built in the mid-nineteenth century as a Methodist Manse next to a pimento estate. Today it is a showcase for many of the island's most talented artists and craftsmen and very well presented. There is an art gallery, craft center, bookshop and boutique and restaurant. It is open from 10am to 6pm daily. (974-4478).

Continue through Caribbean Park and Jamaica Beach to Rio Nuevo, the site of a battle where the Spanish defeated the English. The battle site is open daily from 9am to 4 pm. The road then goes through Salt Gut and Boscobel Beach to Oracabessa and the very popular James Bond Beach, where you can often listen to live reggae performances. See how many Bond film titles you can spot. For instance, the ticket booth is called 'Money Penny' and the Changing Rooms bear the sign 'For Your Eyes Only'.

A little further on you pass Firefly, the former home of Noel Coward and now preserved as he left it, thanks to a $250,000 restoration program. It was named after the luminous fireflies seen after dark. The late playwright discovered the site in 1948 while holidaying on the island and staying with Ian Fleming nearby. He bought the 5 acre (2-hectare) hilltop plateau and built the house in 1956 as a retreat. Many of the world's greatest film stars and members of the Royal family were entertained here and he loved it so much he chose to be buried in the grounds.

The spot where the property is located was originally known as Look-Out and had been used by the buccaneer Sir Henry Morgan 300 years earlier to keep watch fo pirates. The studio where Noel Coward worked has magnificent views, and he called it 'the room with a view'.

Just outside is a marvelous statue of Noel Coward sitting on a bench and looking out to sea. The tour includes a 20-minute biographical video and a walk through the house and grounds. There is an admission fee. The house is preserved as he left it and is now a museum on the life and lifestyle of Noel Coward sitting on a bench and looking out to sea. The tour includes a 20-minute biographical video and a walk through the house and grounds. There is a small restaurant offering light lunches and afternoon tea. The house and grounds are open from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm Monday to Saturday (997-7201).

Further down the road is Goldeneye, the home of Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond, but it is not open to the public.
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